![]() ![]() The best way to ensure that the L-ascorbic acid product you are using is active and ready to give you the benefits you want is to make regular fresh batches. However, many companies choose to avoid the ingredient and opt for the less potent, more stable forms of vitamin C to use in their product. ![]() There are some ways to improve its stability such as through including other antioxidants in the formulation such as ferulic acid or vitamin E, through packaging choices, or maintaining strict pH levels. ![]() This instability of L-ascorbic acid can make it a difficult ingredient to formulate with. This means that it easily degrades when exposed to air, sunlight, and even when it is just sitting in a bottle. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is that it is notoriously unstable. While some of the different forms of vitamin C are converted into L-ascorbic acid in the body, the best way to get the benefits from your vitamin C product is through using L-ascorbic acid. L-ascorbic acid is the form of vitamin C that is used in the body. However, the most biologically active form of vitamin C is L-ascorbic acid. There are many forms of vitamin C, including ascorbyl palmitate, mineral ascorbates, calcium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Vitamin C is a natural antioxidant, may help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, and has been suggested to support collagen production in the skin. You can only put acids on your skin so many times before you see something happens, and vitamin C is a strong acid." That's why Holey and Veronique concocted their new C-Therapy Serum ($90), which uses new, more stable and gentle vitamin C derivatives for symptomatic skin.Vitamin C is one of the most popular skincare ingredients and for good reason. "A lot of the barrier function compromises come from not paying attention to the pH balance and the microbiome. "It's tricky when you really mess with your skin's pH levels repeatedly," says Veronique. and vitamin C is a strong acid." -Marie Veronique "You can only put acids on your skin so many times before you see something happens. This creates hydronium ions, according to Veronique, which can lead to skin sensitivity. While this often occurs in old formulas within a bottle, vitamin C can also oxidize on your skin when it comes into contact with oxygen. "This may cause some skin irritation, redness, and dryness," according to him.Īside from the naturally acidic makeup of vitamin C, when oxidation-the process when vitamin C interacts with the air around it and renders it useless-happens, sensitization and irritation can also happen. It sounds like a scary experiment to be slathering acids on skin but actually most active ingredients are formulated at a low pH, says Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, of ingredients such as L-ascorbic acid, retinoic acid, and hyaluronic acid. And vitamin C is a potent acid, notes Veronique, so in order for it to best penetrate your skin, "it has to be at a pH level of about three (or more acidic)," she says. This led the skin-care duo to investigate what was up.Īt a basic chemistry level, your skin's acid mantle sits at a pH of around 4.5 to a 5. "With this obvious rise of vitamin C products on the market, there was a direct correlation to these responses to vitamin C," says Holey. But skin-care specialist Kristina Holey, who works with Veronique, started noticing more and more clients with bad skin reactions from layering on the serums. Vitamin C is a beauty-boosting antioxidant that's known for stimulating your skin's collagen production, brightening dark spots, and repairing free radical damage. "But we do know that vitamin C is very important for the skin." That's why there's been an influx of vitamin C serums, moisturizers, and cleansers onto beauty shelves. It's just us and the fruit bat that don't make our own vitamin C-we're the outliers," says chemist and skin-care expert Marie Veronique, who has a highly coveted eponymous skin-care line. ![]()
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